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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and beautiful beaches make up the magnificent combination that is the Athens Riviera. Therefore at the end of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a not unpleasant question: where to go to relax bones still longing for a last splash of warm weather. For this city offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a coastline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Greek island would covet.

Out of season, the coasts of Attica still have a powerful draw, as I discovered when taking a dip into a fading sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those seeking revitalization in azure seas ready to turn golden as the sun sets, swimming off one of the Riviera’s public or private beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at a local tavern, a tavern whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the spectacular view of the inlet it overlooks. In a nod to bygone eras, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its coastline: natural elevations within sight of the Acropolis that make it a rich resource for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to get away from a metropolis that extends across almost 500 square kilometers, these rocky outcrops – bearers of wonderful titles such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Hill of the Muses – are a must-see.

In my view, this historic city is the continent's most spiritual and magnificent.

If you climb the top of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either by foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to stay centrally, the ancient Plaka district remains the ideal location. The old-school Adrian hotel has doubles facing the northern face of the Parthenon from about £120 bed and breakfast. In the same area, Zorbas is a favourite eatery with locals and serves the juiciest lamb chops. With vistas of the ancient monument, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are wonderfully atmospheric and ideal for warm autumn evenings – for a real treat head to a top restaurant or the Michelin‑starred fine dining establishment.

The Sicilian Capital

Think Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Think again. In this city they prefer sfincione, a tender, airy slice of dough topped with rich, onion-laden tomato sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and herbs. Savory, satisfying and cozy, it’s available in shops, stands and stalls throughout the town (a central street in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We try it at a stand on a central square, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has long queues, but they progress fast as employees dish out pieces of the pizza, as well as rice balls and panelle. There are a few tables under the shade outside, but we eat as we walk into the city along narrow a street. This is a nice walk in October but wouldn’t always be in the heat. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily topped 40C in the shade. At the summer's peak one hot spot reached an unprecedented 158F at the surface.

We stroll the streets and enjoy how its long history is written in its streets.

Now, as the climate rise to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can wander the city and appreciate how its heritage is written in its streets. Walking by historic buildings, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; a main square, with its Renaissance water feature, installed under Spanish rule; and the grand church, built on the location of a ancient Islamic temple.

On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the origins of which also stretch back over a millennium. Some decry its commercialization, but it is still noisy and highly dramatic. Being adventurous, we pause for a traditional spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “filling” balanced by cheese topping. The stallholder is especially pleased of his offal specialty but, unfortunately, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to return to more peaceful La Kalsa, the former Arab quarter to the east, which was damaged in the second world war and declined for years before being renewed this era. a boutique hotel (ocean-facing doubles from $175 with breakfast) is a small guesthouse with lots to see close by. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a 17th-century baroque pile restored and reopened in 2021 to display the an art collection, which features works by Gilbert & George and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll a short distance to Palermo’s Botanical Garden, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are singing their hearts out as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and the cold season will begin. We enjoy a final days in the light.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the close of the warm season and hanging out at beach bars and swimming areas on the branches of the Danube, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a city of green spaces and well-kept lawns, grassy areas and woodland belts, which swap their green canopy for a golden and ochre glow the Austrians call Goldener Herbst.

I depart from the grandiose architecture and old streets of the historic centre. South-west of it, a famous park splays from the grand royal palace, where the gold isn’t reserved for the interior, and makes its way into corridors of tall bronzed hedgerows and arched tree terraces that go to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the Hauptallee, an path that’s almost three miles long and centuries-old. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled a trendy hotel (rooms from $85 B&B) is a perfectly placed retreat.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting green spaces and fostering community spirit), autumn brings a feast of fresh produce on menus. Squash soup is the seasonal staple – best devoured in a traditional pub such as the decorated a popular spot – and accompanied by a breaded cutlet.

The city is a city of parks and landscapes that change their emerald halo for a rusty amber and ochre glow.

Little known, Vienna is the only continental city to grow vintage within its city limits, with 1,723 acres of grape fields. There are 14 official urban paths, known as walking routes. Route one takes you through the vintner lands of a district. Relax in a slope wine tavern such as a local winery, sipping a zesty grüner veltliner with a platter (a platter of cold cuts and cheese), while enjoying the beautiful urban view.

The hours are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to stroll among the city's stately palaces, museums and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|